Hot fusion vs. MicroRing extensions

Hot fusion vs. MicroRing Extensions

For hot fusion extensions we buy bundles of loose hair, blend colours as we go and use a hot gun to put a blob of bonding material on the end.  We take this hot bond a little away from the root area of your hair then roll the hot bond to a narrow bead shape.  When the bond is cool, the extension is firmly attached.

Advantages:

• It's easy to get a perfect colour blend as different extension hair is blended strand by strand.
• Your stylist can adjust the size of each strand and bond according to where on the head it is placed and the thickness of your own hair.
• The bond is a smooth, thin bead shape without sharp edges or corners.

Disadvantages:

• This is the most time-consuming method of applying extensions
• It is difficult to re-use hair, so every application is the same cost again
• It is usually the most expensive method of extending hair

For MicroRing extensions we buy hair which has been pre-bonded with a keratin bond (or stick-tip).  The extensions are available in different strand weights, usually 0.6g - 1.0g each.  Your hair is pulled through a silicon-lined metal ring, the stick-tip slipped through and the ring is squeezed closed.

Advantages:

• This method is quicker to apply
• There are more suppliers of pre-bonded hair keeping costs lower
• If hair is good quality and looked after well it can be reused, making the second application cheaper
• Tends to be cheaper than hot fusion

Disadvantages:

• Pre-bonded hair can make colour match less convincing
• Bonds tends to be larger and can be more visible on some areas of the head or on very fine hair
• Rings can feel bulkier
• Hair comes in few lengths - there's a lot of waste if you want shorter extensions

As you can see, there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.  One really isn't better than the other.  Your budget will probably dictate your choice but you should try to choose what will give the best result for your hair type and requirements.  Your extension technician will help you choose.

Phil xxx

phil@bravohair.com

Bravo Hairdressing, 57 Cheap Street, Newbury, Berks.  RG14 5DH (01635) 552323

5 ways to get a TERRIBLE set of extensions

5 ways to get a TERRIBLE set of extensions

Hair extensions are big business.  They're a great way of adding length and thickness and give a beautiful, glamorous look.  At least that's the theory.  I make a good living here in Newbury from rescuing a horrible set of extensions.  Sometimes it's a stylist being sloppy, sometimes a client.  Here are 5 ways you can stop yours being the next set I fix!

1.  Colour match
I've seen it so many times.  The shade ring comes out, the client gets a slightly glazed look and starts stroking beautiful rich chestnuts or shiny ash blondes.  Two rules here: match the colour at the ends, not the root and most importantly: match the colour it IS, not what you wish it WAS!

2.  Length
It's tempting when you're paying hundreds of pounds for extensions to pay the extra few pounds for the longest hair possible (usually 20" or 22").  Remember though: the longer you go the harder the extensions will be to blend, they will need more aftercare and maintenance and they may place more strain on your hair and scalp.  I recommend a maximum length of 14" - 18" for beginners.

3.  Aftercare
You know that long list of instructions?  And the piece of paper you signed to say you'd follow them?  It's not just your hairdresser covering themselves, it really is the tried and tested way of keeping your extensions looking their very best for as long as possible.  Ignore aftercare and your extensions will look like a bad wig very quickly.

4.  Maintenance
Your stylist will make it clear as part of the initial consultation how often they expect to see you for maintenance.  Don't scrimp: good maintenance gives your stylist the chance to correct any problems and extends the lifespan of your new extensions.

5.  When they're done, they're done!
Your stylist will give you a lifespan for a set of extensions (usually 2-6 months depending on application method and hair quality).  Good maintenance and aftercare will help but by the end of this lifespan they extensions may have started to shed, you'll have dropped bonds and they may start to look tired.  If you haven't followed your maintenance schedule they'll also be stringy, tangled and too far from the scalp.  Take 'em out but please don't try to remove them yourself.

Phil xxx

phil@bravohair.com
Bravo Hairdressing, Newbury, Berkshire

5 Hair Resolutions you won't want to break!

5 Hair Resolutions for 2014

Be kind to yourself.  We're too hard, too critical, too quick to judge ourselves harshly.  Do your best and look for resolutions you can actually enjoy keeping!  Here are my suggestions.

1. I will visit my salon regularly.  "Regularly" doesn't have to mean every four weeks, but a little maintenance on a regular basis saves time, reduces bad hair days and can save you money too.  If you don't believe me compare the "regrowth" price on your salon's price card to the "colour correction" one!
2. I will pay for the best I can and expect the best in return.  Your hair is the part of your outfit you can't take off.  You know good shoes make all the difference: great stylists do too.  That said, don't put up with second-rate service if you're paying first-rate prices.  You deserve better!
3. I will buy a few good quality products and use them.  One of the reasons your hair doesn't look as good as it did in the salon mirror could be the shelf full of crusty mousse and 3-for-2 hairspray you're using.  Detox in January and bin the lot (trust me, you'll only feel bad for a day) then buy one or two good quality styling products and use them as directed.  It will make all the difference.
4. I will see my hair with a fresh pair of eyes.  New Year is a great time to review.  What do you want your hair to say about you?  What is it saying right now?  If the two aren't the same start moving towards your goal.
5. I will make a plan and stick to it.  Set your hair goals, work back from big events and holidays, make your appointments and stick to them.  I'll bet that leads to less stress and less frantic phone calls two days before that family wedding where you simply CAN'T have 2" roots.

That's got to be easier than dropping 20 pounds and living off lettuce hasn't it?

Phil xxx

phil@bravohair.com
Bravo Hairdressing, 57 Cheap Street, Newbury, Berks.  RG14 5DH (01635) 552323

Why hairdressers LOVE ravers!

Why hairdressers LOVE ravers!

The very best stylists from the most magnificent salons with the very highest levels of customer care STILL lose clients.  As a rough estimate I'd say between 3% and 10% of clients disappear from a stylist's appointment page each year despite being delighted with the salon and service.  That hits any stylist working on commission HARD.

The reasons are diverse: clients relocating, reconciling a drop in income or even unfortunately dying, or a stylist's change in working hours or promotion to a new grade.

Whatever the reason the biggest favour you can ever do a stylist is to RAVE about them!

This isn't such a big ask any more: check in on Facebook when you're in the salon, or send a tweet or pic of your new 'do.  It shows the world that your stylist is fab (and if they're not why are you still with them?) and it makes a real difference to how busy a stylist is.  What's more they feel good about their work too.

Some salons also offer a more structured recommend-a-friend scheme which can earn you money off or free products and services.  In my experience, few clients do this well but those that do tend to do an awesome job at it.  I even have two lucky clients who rarely pay for any services in my salon!

So ...

IF YOU'RE HAPPY AND YOU KNOW IT

TELL YOUR FRIENDS!

Phil xxx

phil@bravohair.com
Bravo Hairdressing, 57 Cheap Street, Newbury, Berks.  RG14 5DH (01635) 552323

6 ways you can get FREE hairdressing from the most expensive salons

There aren't many salons that don't give away some free services occasionally.  With a little flexibility you can enjoy the very best hairdressing at no cost at all!

1. Make a deal
Don't be afraid to ask - I have a very good, long term hair extension client who NEVER pays for her hair. How? She paid for her first set some four years ago before a wedding where she was bridesmaid.  She loved them and came back a month later with a proposition.  She said:

"Phil, I love my new extensions and my hair looks great but I can't afford your prices on a regular basis.  My friends love them too and I have four who are serious about having them."

Now every time she wants a new set of extensions (about twice a year), she brings me four new extension clients.  She works in a busy department store and always has my card in her purse.
PROS: I LOVE a win-win!
CONS: I can't think of any!! Make sure you're asking an owner/manager.

2. Model cuts
Everyone has to learn and young, eager stylists often offer free or very cheap haircuts to built their portfolio and level of experience.  Salons closely supervise their students to prevent disasters!

PROS: Cheap/free, regular training means a continual need for models
CONS: May be set training times, can be a very long appointment, you need to be flexible

3. Recommend a friend
Lots of salons offer some kind of recommend-a-friend scheme.  It's a great way of rewarding loyalty and building a stylist's clientele and Facebook fiends should find this really easy! Our scheme lets you earn up to £135 a year in free services but schemes vary a lot from salon to salon.

PROS: You still choose your stylist and appointment slot
CONS: Usually only works when you introduce new clients to the salon

4. Demos and client evenings
The best salons are continually communicating with their clients about products and services.  Offering your head for a client evening or demo is a great way of getting even very expensive services for free.

PROS: Even high-ticket services like hair extensions can be offered
CONS: Not a regular need for models, you may need to give up an evening

5. New service models
When a salon takes on a brand new service they often hold in-salon training to familiarise the team with the process before carrying it out on a paying client.

PROS: Reliable models are called on again and again, can be very high-ticket services
CONS: Not a regular need for models, services can take a long time

6. Giveaways and competitions
Checking your salon's Facebook page regularly, following on Twitter and signing up for newsletters will give you a head start when giveaways happen.  Also check your local paper.

PROS: Usually free to enter, you can choose which to enter and which don't interest you
CONS: You need to be quick - giveaways are always popular, you will probably end up on the salon mailing list

Phil x

5 tips for going blonde this summer

Every year we get a mini-flood of customers who want lighter hair for the summer. This year is no exception: in fact the hotter weather has made our customers more sociable and even more eager to lighten!  Here are 5 tips for those thinking of going blonde this year.

1. Plan ahead

How much commitment do you want? Is this a "just for the summer" lightening or a long term affair? Look at ultra-trendy ombré and balayage techniques if upkeep might be an issue. 

2. Condition, condition, condition

Beach blondes rock, knackered or salt-frazzled locks do not. Condition before you lighten to get hair in its best shape possible, the condition after every wash to maintain moisture and shine levels.

3. Change you routine

Lightened hair needs extra care - you may need to change your shampoo, conditioner or both. 

4. Use protection

Protect lightened hair from UV with a good leave-in conditioner or styling product and protect from heat damage during styling. Frizzy blonde is ALWAYS awful!

5. Choose your tone

Very dark hair will look better with caramel and toffee blondes. Lighter hair can take ash, light beige and white blondes. Check against your skin tone too - very tanned against very ash blonde can look trashy.

Enjoy the sunshine and yes, blondes really DO have more fun!

Phil xxx

Rinsing your hair in cold water WON'T make it shiny!

First, a bit of science.

The outer layer of the hair is called the cuticle - rows of little tiles that open and close. Things that make them open include heat and alkaline products (perm lotion, hair colour, bleach etc.)  Things that close the cuticle are cold and acid products (vinegar, lemon juice, pH balanced conditioners etc.)

So why won't cold water make your hair shiny? Well, it's true that the cuticle will close with cold water - but then what? Unless you're an otter, your hair is going to need drying at some stage. Either you're going to rough up the cuticle with a towel, or your going to apply heat in the form of a hairdryer, or both!

So how do you get hair to shine?

1. Products. There are a ton of shine products for all hair types.

2. Condition. Parched hair is prone to frizz, flyaways and will never look glossy.

3. Colour. Artificial colours, especially semi- or demi-permanents bring bags of shine. That said, you'll struggle more with shine on lighter shades and blonde due to the way colour pigment lies in the hair.

4. No colour! Ask your stylist about a clear glossing service. It's literally a clear shiny coating for the hair.

Be kind to your hair, and enjoy warm water!

Phil xxx

phil@bravohair.com

Bravo Hairdressing, Newbury, Berkshire

(01635) 552323

KMS's New way to combat frizz

You'll forgive us for being a little cynical about KMS's new Tame Frizz range. We've always thought of KMS as a high-performance but pretty comprehensive range and we already have a range for curly hair and one for smoothing. In the end it took our rep, Goldwell Dave, to promise us a sale-or-return deal before we placed the order. 

Surprise number one was the price. Manufacturers often use a new product launch to bump the prices, but this all sits comfortably within the existing prices (all products under 15 quid).  There's an intro box of shampoo, conditioner and oil for less than £30, but stocks were ridiculously limited so you'd be lucky to grab one. 

Surprise number two was the size of the range. This is not a massive array of products to hold.

   1. Shampoo and Conditioner. Both lightweight but creamy, good comb glide and delicious fragrance. A promising start and a basin area winner. We give them 7/10. 

   2. Smoothing Lotion. Very light leave-in, great detangler and heat protection too. We'd have liked a little more hold. 6/10, or 8/10 if you use it instead of conditioner. 

   3. Taming Creme. This is the daddy. We trialled it on Cara, a gorgeous girl of dual heritage with tight curls and tons of frizz. It blow-dried like a dream and our stylists give it a whopping 9/10!

   4. De-frizz Oil. We like this but it's a tough sell, especially on clients with fine hair. Clients expect a gloopy, sticky serum which this definitely isn't. To be honest we prefer to use a touch more Taming Creme to finish with. 6/10

All in all, we're impressed. If the scores seem a little low, that's because we're tough to please. We shouldn't be surprised that KMS could come up with a winning was to fight frizz - after all both KMS and John Frieda of Frizz-Ease fame are owned by the Kao Corporation. The only sad note is that this may be the final nail in the coffin for the troubled Silk Sheen range - though the products are different they're pitched at the same market and we've decided to discontinue the whole range. 

Tame Frizz is available at Bravo Hairdressing, Newbury, now. 

Phil x

Add groovy blonde to your 'do, dude!

FREE Shampoo

when you add groovy blonde to your 'do

Nobody wants to feel like their stuck in a hair rut, so to help you follow the trend for lighter, brighter Summer hair we're giving away a FREE full-size KMS Blonde Shampoo to everyone who adds blonde to their 'do throughout June.

Full head tint, foils or a few slices through the fringe can give a real lift - ask your Bravo stylist for suggestions.

Blonde doesn't necessarily mean bleach - from soft toffee blondes through medium gold and beige to cool ash and icy whites, theres a blonde to complement many natural shades.

5 tips for storm-proof hair

It's not just my garden fence taking a battering this week. Take a look at these five tips for appearing less like you've been dragged through a hedge!

1. Condition
Moisturised hair looks less frizzy and flyaway so treat your hair to a high-quality leave-in conditioner before you apply your styling product.

2. Leave it alone!
The more you move your hair around while it dries naturally, the more frizz you'll get. If you're caught in a downpour don't faff with your hair while it's drying, let it dry completely then work finishing product into the hair to revive your style.

3. ...or dry it properly
It's not practical to carry a hair dryer around with you, but a little of your fave styling product is worth keeping in your glove box. Apply a little then find a loo with a hand dryer with an adjustable nozzle. No I'm not joking. Blasting hair from root to tip smoothes the cuticle and fights frizz, but his doesn't work with the funky new Dyson Blade dryer. Trust me.

4. Go with what you've got
This isn't the weather for spending an hour straightening your curls or curling your straight hair. Focus instead on moisturising and defining your natural texture and save the heat styling for better weather.

5. ... or change what you've got
Take a look at the new Bumble and Bumble smoothing service to fight frizz and flyaway for weeks at a time. Mention this blog when you're booking to save £50 in May too.


Phil xx

Five tips for fab summer styles

Here comes the sun, and don't we all feel better? It's not such a great season for hair though, and in the soon we see more condition damage and colour fade almost as soon as the temperature starts to rise. Follow these five tips to keep your hair looking great this Summer.

1. Moisture, moisture, moisture! Even when humidity is high, soaring (or even just varying) temperatures can leave hair looking fried and frizzy. Lots of conditioner, especially leave-in conditioner helps here.

2. Don't over-lighten. You remember the neighbour in "There's Something About Mary"? That over-brown leathery skin and bleached hair? Not a great look. Luckily, this season's blondes have more tone - don't be afraid to soften with golden blondes or even light brunettes which will flatter tanned skin.

3. Give your hair a holiday. Treat your style to a break from heat-styling - yes, I know it can be tough, but your hair will thank you for it when the sun shines.

4. Use protection. Lots of styling and finishing products have UV filters which can help prevent damage and fade and some manufacturers have sun-specific ranges too. Remember to reapply after swimming. On a budget? Get a hat: a physical barrier between hair and sun is the best protection possible.

5. Don't get the runs. Hair is naturally dryer at the ends, and styling and colouring don't help. Get dryness trimmed ASAP to prevent splits running up the air shaft - it'll be more than a trim if you wait!

Have fun in the sun
Phil xx

5 Steps to Shiny Hair

I've come to the conclusion that there is no good time of year for hair in Britain. The weather is either cold and wet, warm and wet or warm and humid - not exactly conducive to glossy, groomed locks.

It's almost impossible to eliminate all frizz from hair all the time, but these tips should help your lok your best:

1. Get off to a good start. A conditioning treatment will get your tresses looking glossy – time it with your cut to get rid of dry ends
2. Moisture = Shine. Make sure your shampoo is moisturising and condition EVERY time
3. Always dry your hair pointing the dryer from root to tip – this keeps the cuticle (outermost layer) of the hair closed to reflect light
4. High hold products don't tend to have much shine. Swap hair spray for a shine mist or serum for a glassy finish
5. Straight hair shines more: consider Kerastraight straightening for shiny hair every day, or use GHD straighteners sparingly to tame the frizzies.

Phil x

Here comes the sun . . . and there goes my colour!

Why does hair colour fade in the sun??

Annoying isn't it? Beautiful subtle tones all reduced to a washed out mess with shades of orangey gold.

Synthetic dyes are made of clever things called polymers. By the time they're in the hair the polymer molecule is relatively long and stable. Then comes nasty UV! Think of the polymer as a type of plastic, then picture what happens to plastics when they are left in the sun: they fade, go brittle and eventually break. This fading and breaking of the molecule is exactly what is happening to your hair colour. Add the fact that the cuticle of the hair opens in the heat resulting in loss of moisture: your lovely shimmering tones don't stand a chance!

What can you do?

• Work on maintaining the condition of the hair EVERY wash
• Wear a hat?!
• Use a UV protection hair product whenever there's a chance of exposure to the sun. Check the labels - there's UV protection in a wide range of specialist products AND a lot of general styling products too
• PERSONAL OPINION - Reds tend to fade quicker in the sun, so maybe avoid them for the summer months and bring them back into your style for the autumn
• Factor a little fade into the equation - made reds or coppers slightly richer or more vibrant, browns a little deeper and don't be afriad of a little gold in your blonde.

Enjoy your summer!

Phil x

10 Tips for Wedding Hair

Bravo's Ten Tips for Stunning Wedding Hair

1. Book your wedding hair appointment, then work backwards. I recommend a colour about a week before the wedding (more than that, your roots will start to show, less and the colour can look a brash). Your last cut should be about two weeks before to get rid of dead ends and give the cut time to soften.

2. Look like you! If you have beautiful curly hair, use it. If soft and gentle is your style, avoid sleek up-dos. He's marrying you - it would be nice if he recognised you.

3. Condition, condition, then condition some more. Ask your stylist to work out a programme of salon treatments for you. Buy a weekly treatment for home use (and actually USE IT!). Your hair should shine on your wedding day - not give a halo of frizz.

4. Have a trial - a hairdresser who styles your wedding 'do' without a trial is either lucky and psychic or careless and lazy. Insist on a dry run, bring ideas and any accessories you'd like to wear, and . . .

5. Choose your dress first. High backed dresses lend themselves to glam up-dos. Plunge backs are better for half-up/half-downs. A plunge back with an up-do leaves a lot of skin and is best left to the brave!

6. Look at the big picture. A sleek vampy up-do may look great on you, but you'll look like a plum stood next to three bo-peep bridesmaids.

7. Keep it simple - or at least classic. You'll be looking at these photos for the rest of your life - Gaga-esque hair will date quickly and cause cringes later.

8. Train your bridesmaids. Make sure they are present when you're hair is styled - they should be equipped with a mini can of hairspray, hairgrips if needed and some sort of shine product for retouches. If you're having a veil or tiara make sure your bridesmaid knows how to take it out without wrecking your style.

9. Less really is more. A detailed dress, flowers, tiara, diamante grips and a veil will leave you like an ivory Christmas tree. Choose a tiara OR a veil for all but the fanciest weddings, a few pretty grips OR some small-bud flowers are fine. Bear in mind that fresh flowers can look jaded by the first dance.

10. Relax - hair will move! A few strands loosening as the day wears on is natural and actually looks rather lovely.

Phil x

Inspired by Sassoon's courtesy of Wella

I enjoyed some fab demos from Edward (UK Colour Director) and Danielle (Creative Director) from the Sassoon's team today.

I'd never seen Danielle's work before, but she's a great cutter and gives a really inciteful demo too.

I've been lucky enough to watch Edward' work a few times now - he really is one of the best colourists in the biz.

I was attending the Wella Master Colour Congress which is a regular refresh/inspire session attended by all Wella Master Colour Experts. The Master Colour Expert is Wella's highest colour qualification, and I've been a proud holder for over five years now. It's great that Wella try so hard to keep updating you: it keeps you motivated to try new ideas and gives real insight into how the brand and products are developing. After all, how are we to be the best salon in Berkshire if I just churn out the same-old all day every day? It's also great to catch up with other colour technicians from around the country - it's lovely to spend time with people who share a passion.

Phil x

GHD Special Offer - Ends next week

The £99 GHDs go back to their normal price NEXT SATURDAY 6TH MARCH! We've managed to secure 6 more at this very special price, but that really will be the last stock.

Grab a bargain and a freeby GHD Heatproof carry case too - you can reserve by phone on (01635) 552323.

Phil x

Happy Holidays

Scott and I have arrived home safe and sound after our little break in Turkey. We're raring to go and fully recharged. Holidays are a great opportunity to reflect on the "bigger picture" away from the hussle and bussle and distractions of everyday work, and we always come home with lots of plans and ideas for the future direction of Bravo.

Scott also managed a cross-cultural exchange of sorts when he got roped into cutting hair for a couple of ex-pats. It may not have been the best salon in the world, but the owner was very hospitable and looked after us with real warmth of spirit (and gallons of tea and coffee!). We'd obviously left our business sense at home though - surely it's the customer who is meant to pay?!

It is always a joy to see hairdressing across the world, and I take a keen interest in the industry and methods wherever we travel. Some of the brand names we come across are truly worldwide (I've bought Wella colours in Bangkok before now) and I love the way that salons reflect the values of the local population. In Thailand we saw salons which were hopelessly overstaffed by Western standards - when we interviewed the owners it became clear that the salon was a nice place to work and a social institution first, with profit taking a back seat. In Turkey we saw an incredibly high level of skill in male grooming with some pretty horrendous examples of hair styling and colouring for women, which I assume reflects traditional religious values of many women not showing their hair in public.

Anyway, it's good to be back - there will be more photos of our Turkish expeditions on the Dolly the Dog page on Facebook as soon as I've Photoshopped the double chins and shiny noses!

Phil x

In my opinion - Professional Products

Hairdressing relies on supplier relationships. Our suppliers (Wella, L'Oreal, Schwartzkopf, etc.) provide us with not only our colours, bleaches and peroxides, but also their own professional ranges of shampoos, conditioners and treatments. Add to this that they are also our primary source of post-qualification training and education and you see how important this relationship is.

Competition comes in many forms, and perhaps I've become flippant over the years but competition from other salons does not bother me in the least. Competition brings market-led pricing and a general improvement in industry standards (at least at a local level). I also expect and accept competition from suppliers for profit margin - that's what business is about. What does annoy me, however, is that the suppliers we work so closely with are also our high-street competitors - walk into any chemist and those same brands are on the colouring, shampoo and conditioner shelves PLUS they get better placement in magazines and higher promotion budgets. Now that just seems a little rude.

It's true that if you trace the ownership of almost every salon brand you'll find it's owned by a huge multinational which also has chemist products in its portfolio, but let's at least choose brands with no high street equivalents. So I'm calling to salon owners everywhere - let's vote with our feet! It's not our job to build brand awareness and give professional credibility to these dreadful products (leave that to Myleene, Davina and the rest of their breed!). Let our shelves be filled with exclusive, salon-only brands and ditch those with copy-cat nasties lurking in 3-for-2 land. Our customers deserve better!

Phil x